Cramp was designed for live performance and Nati Peluso will do it in 2021. Let's start with Spain: our country became the starting point of the eponymous Calambre Tour, which started in Barcelona in April last year. The multifaceted Argentine artist has already given several concerts, each time with more or less general prerequisites for her: a powerful elastic jumpsuit with various holes and motifs that emphasize her powerful forms. Behind these styles, which like few others summarize the return of 2000 fashion, is Sergio Castagno (Barcelona, 1994), a young creator established at Desigual and Vetements, whose design features a futuristic aesthetic that he shares with firms such as Marine. Serre or Knows. We gossiped to him about his career and recent collaboration with Peluso:
Tell us a little about
yourself: how and when did you decide to devote yourself to fashion?
I am a
designer and tailor who was born in Barcelona in 1994 and I enjoy both thinking
about garments and creating them with my own hands. And despite the fact that
this is an industry full of chiaroscuro, from a very early age my body
inexplicably moved towards it.
Anthropologically
speaking, there is no question that few things reflect as strongly as the use
of clothing. They all do it, and with this gesture, each takes a certain
position. Fun to play On the other hand, in the body cover that our parents
taught us to repeat every morning because of modesty and rules, there are a
thousand opportunities to recreate the absurd and contradictory concept that
makes me have a good time.
About your career, how did
your time at Desigual and Vetements go, and what lessons did you learn best
from both experiences?
I look
back and say to I myself, "I have a bare ass from the ride." Although
I smile when I think about every moment I have experienced along the way, I see
that it was quite difficult to live for the sake of a “foreign” fashion
project. In the end, it took many hours and all the tension behind the brand to
move it forward, and now it's the same, but in constant dialogue with me that
helps me learn a lot about myself. At the company, you meet great people, but the
production chain can turn into a game on the phone, and perhaps the end product
is not what you or I said, but what a supplier looking for grapes sent us.
There will be personalities who will say that there is something to live, but I
just turned 27, and I know that nothing more stressful awaits me from start to
finish when I fight face to face with the pins of Demna and Philip. And nothing
happens.
How did the collaboration
with Nati Peluso start?
I showed
Sandro [Egon, his makeup artist and right hand] some of the first prototypes of
the dresses when he began to ponder the topic of the nude trumpet. And next
week there were three of us in the garlic and on the bottom. Most of all I
liked not only the project (because it is very good to see your product in those
performances that your aunt celebrates), but also its proximity. The technique
of my own house, which is next to mine, a few streets from the center of
Barcelona. It gives the dimension of a person, a place, an idea ... everything
happened on its own. Previously, to enjoy the fashion, I had to go to T1 and
buy a cheap Vueling, but now we have the opportunity to walk around it.
Stretch jumpsuit is one of the main shapes on this
Peluso tour, why this particular garment?
Be careful, because the most intensive research has
focused on finding the ideal quality polyamide mesh. The mesh, because the
lycra was very similar to a swimsuit, was impervious to air, very difficult to
incorporate + 25% recycled material, retaining optimal elasticity, and also
fades when the sublimated image is stretched and loses color saturation. With
this micro-perforated texture I'm talking about, most of these problems are
eliminated and only one appears that is difficult to find.
On the other hand, the decision to sublimate is clear: to
contribute to the textile industry of the Catalan coast in the Maresme, which
has a long history, and to reduce the use and abuse of water, which is one of
the most absurd waste of it. profession, for waste and for all chemical
products that it carries on its way.